Manish Malhotra brings Indian craft to Dubai finale

A sweeping showcase of colour, handwork and heritage brought Dubai Fashion Week to a close on Friday as designer Manish Malhotra presented a collection framed as a tribute to India’s artistic traditions, placing couture craft at the centre of the region’s fast-growing luxury calendar.

Staged as the final show of the season, the presentation unfolded as a polished runway narrative that blended formal silhouettes with ornate surface detailing. Models walked in lehengas, sarees and tailored ensembles layered with intricate embroidery, metallic threadwork and crystal embellishment, underscoring Malhotra’s long-standing emphasis on craftsmanship rooted in the subcontinent’s atelier culture. The show drew buyers, editors and regional fashion executives, reinforcing Dubai Fashion Week’s ambition to bridge South Asian design with Middle Eastern luxury markets.

The designer described the collection as a personal homage, built around memories of textiles, ceremonial wear and cinematic glamour that have shaped his three-decade career. The garments leaned into rich jewel tones, ivory neutrals and antique golds, with fabrics ranging from silk and velvet to sheer chiffons engineered for movement under runway lighting. Several looks were styled with statement jewellery and fluid draping, signalling an effort to balance traditional techniques with contemporary wearability.

Dubai Fashion Week, jointly organised by Dubai Design District and the Arab Fashion Council, has been positioning itself as a platform where global designers can access Gulf retailers and high-net-worth consumers. Closing the event with a designer of Malhotra’s profile was widely seen within the industry as a strategic move, reflecting the strong commercial and cultural links between South Asia and the Gulf’s luxury sector. Retailers in attendance noted sustained demand in the region for couture and occasion wear that carries heritage value while remaining adaptable to modern styling.

Malhotra’s presence also highlighted the growing influence of South Asian designers on international runways beyond Paris and Milan. Over the past few seasons, designers from the region have increasingly shown collections in global fashion capitals and destination fashion weeks, responding to diaspora markets and a renewed interest in artisanal production. Industry analysts say this shift aligns with a broader luxury trend that prizes narrative, provenance and hand-crafted detail over rapid trend cycles.

The show’s choreography and music were deliberately restrained, allowing the garments’ textures and finishes to command attention. Several ensembles featured labour-intensive embroidery techniques associated with specialist workshops, drawing attention to the skilled artisans behind the pieces. Fashion executives attending the event said such visibility is becoming a differentiator for luxury brands seeking to demonstrate depth beyond branding and celebrity endorsements.

Dubai’s role as host added another layer of symbolism. The city has emerged as a neutral meeting point for designers, buyers and media from Europe, Asia and the Middle East, supported by logistics infrastructure and a consumer base receptive to high-end fashion. Organisers have been steadily expanding the event’s international roster, while also courting established names capable of delivering global headlines and commercial traction.