Rami al Ali offered a deceptively simple column gown, in the palest lilac, with a train that pooled onto the floor. It looked like an updated kimono, with billowing sleeves that were caught at the wrist and cherry blossom embroidery delicately scattered across the shoulders and hips. The collar — high enough to cover the chin, was held stiff and starched away from the face, making the women inside all the more fragile. Courtesy of Rami al Ali.
The show for Giorgio Armani’s couture line, Armani Prive, focused on crisp silhouettes until almost the end, when it hit an entirely different note. Having already paid passing mention to ethnic embroidery, the final two looks jumped headlong into the genre, championing the style of Uzbek suzanis. A heavy embroidered skirt, in mustard and silver silk floss, was paired with a barely-there lace top, and topped with a blousey feather boa for a decadent 1920s feel. Courtesy of Armani Prive
In a bold move, Givenchy opted to open its haute couture show with intricate checks that were skilfully carved around the body. A deep-cut back, framed by thickly pleated ruffles (which were echoed around the waist and hem) felt fluid and vaguely Spanish, while naive embroidery across the body and sleeves felt reminiscent of traditional Palestinian textiles. Courtesy of Givenchy
Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her first haute couture collection for Christian Dior in the gardens of the Musee Rodin, and centred her collection around the brand’s iconic Bar jacket. This saw literal jackets and coats in varying lengths give way to a more pared down approach that focused entirely on the cinched-in waist and classic 1950s silhouette. This came to life in an embroidered tulle dress made from black net and decorated with stylised flowers, laid over nude tulle. The multiple layers of gossamer tulle created volume and airiness, while thin ties, carelessly slipped off shoulders, added to the simplicity of the overall look. Courtesy of Christian Dior
Every season, Chanel delivers at least one achingly beautiful gown that makes the world stop turning for a second, and this collection saw Lily-Rose Depp, daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, step out in delicate, blush, swirling, ruched chiffon, which clung like clouds to her shoulders and tumbled mesmerisingly from her hips. The dropped waist bodice, still tightly belted, retained both proportion and space. Courtesy of Chanel